Japan in December is cold, dry and bright on the Pacific side, snowy in the north and in the mountains, and full of illuminations, Christmas markets and end-of-year rituals. It is one of the most underrated months to visit: the autumn crowds are gone, the skies over Tokyo are often clear blue, and ski season starts in Hokkaido and Nagano.
The main things to plan around are the short days (it gets dark around 4:30 pm in Tokyo), the busy Christmas and New Year period, and the fact that many shops, museums and offices close for a few days around 29 December to 3 January. Below you find the weather by region, the best events, what to pack and a few honest tips.
Weather in Japan in December
December weather depends a lot on where you are. Japan stretches from subtropical Okinawa to snowy Hokkaido, so you can pick the winter you want.
| Region | Typical daytime feel | What to expect |
|---|---|---|
| Tokyo, Yokohama | About 10 to 13°C by day, close to freezing on some nights | Mostly dry and sunny, snow is very rare |
| Kyoto, Osaka | Similar to Tokyo, Kyoto feels colder in the mornings | Dry, crisp, the last autumn leaves in early December |
| Kanazawa and the Sea of Japan coast | Cold and grey | Rain, sleet and some snow, heavier snow usually from January |
| Hokkaido | Below freezing most of the day | Snow, ski season starts |
| Nagano and the Japanese Alps | Cold, freezing at altitude | Snow in the mountains, ski resorts open |
| Okinawa | Mild, around 17 to 21°C | Too cool for most people to swim, nice for sightseeing |
These are averages, and December in Tokyo can surprise you. In my first year in Tokyo there was a December day with 18°C. That is not normal, but in some years December starts much milder than you would expect, so pack layers rather than only heavy winter clothes.
For a full comparison of the seasons, see my guide on the best time to visit Japan.
Christmas in Japan
Christmas in Japan is not a family holiday like in Europe. It is a romantic date night, a time for illuminations, strawberry shortcake and, famously, fried chicken. Christmas Day is a normal working day, so trains, shops and restaurants run as usual.
- Illuminations: almost every big district switches on light displays from November until about Christmas, some until February.
- Christmas markets: German-style markets with mulled wine and sausages pop up in Tokyo and Yokohama.
- Christmas Eve dinners: popular restaurants are booked out for 24 December, so reserve early if you want a nice dinner.
I wrote a separate guide to Christmas in Japan with the traditions explained, plus tips on the Tokyo Christmas market at Meiji Jingu.
December is my favourite month for illuminations in Tokyo. The most spectacular one for me is Jewellumination at Yomiuriland, an amusement park on the western edge of Tokyo where millions of LEDs cover the rides, the Ferris wheel and the fountains. It is big and colourful in the best way. The most beautiful one, though, is in Roppongi: the lights along the streets with Tokyo Tower glowing in the background feel calmer and more elegant, and it is easy to combine with a dinner in the area.
New Year in Japan (Oshogatsu)
New Year is the most important holiday of the year in Japan. It is when families come together, eat special food and visit a shrine or temple. For travellers, it has two sides.
- Omisoka (31 December): people eat toshikoshi soba, watch the big music show on TV and many temples ring their bells 108 times around midnight.
- Hatsumode (from 1 January): the first shrine visit of the year. Big shrines in Tokyo get extremely crowded on the first three days.
- Closures: many museums, small restaurants and some shops close for a few days around 29 December to 3 January. Department stores often reopen on 2 January with lucky bag (fukubukuro) sales.
- Travel rush: trains, flights and highways are packed around 28 to 30 December and again around 3 to 4 January. Book Shinkansen seats in advance for those dates.
Where to celebrate New Year’s Eve in Tokyo
If you want a real countdown party, go to Shinjuku. The biggest one happens at Tokyu Kabukicho Tower in Kabukicho, with a large screen on the plaza next to the tower, music and DJ parties inside the building. For the countdown into 2026, about 6,000 people from Japan and abroad gathered there, and the music group Atarashii Gakko! made a surprise appearance on stage. The programme changes every year and is usually announced in December, so check the Tokyu Kabukicho Tower website before you go.
Do not plan on Shibuya. The famous countdown at the Scramble Crossing has been cancelled for several years in a row because of overcrowding, and the ward bans drinking in public around the station from 6 pm on 31 December until 5 am on 1 January. You can still walk through Shibuya, but there is no official party and the police keep the crowds moving.
Things to do in Japan in December
See the last autumn leaves
In Tokyo, the ginkgo trees often stay yellow until early December, and Kyoto’s maples can still be red in the first days of the month. It is a nice bonus if you arrive early in December.
Go skiing or snowboarding
Most big resorts in Hokkaido and Nagano open in December. Snow is usually better from late December onward, but early season means fewer people and lower prices. My skiing in Japan guide covers resorts, costs and gear rental.
Soak in an onsen
Cold air and a hot outdoor bath are a perfect match. Winter is the classic onsen season, and a ryokan stay with dinner and a private bath is a great way to warm up after a long day.
Visit the snow monkeys
The snow monkeys of Jigokudani in Nagano are one of the most famous winter sights in Japan. I have visited them twice, and Nagano is a region I keep coming back to; I have been there eight times. Snow is not guaranteed in early December, so if seeing the monkeys in snow matters to you, go later in winter.
Our first visit was in December, and we were really lucky. It was 19 December, the day of the first snowfall of the season, and it was also the first day that the monkeys went into the hot spring pool that winter. Seeing them sit in the steaming water with fresh snow all around was exactly the picture you have in your head. You cannot plan that kind of luck, so if snow is important to you, January and February are the safer months. My guide to Japan in January has more on that.
Enjoy Kyoto without the crowds
Kyoto in winter is calm compared to spring and autumn. Temples look beautiful in the clear winter light, and on a lucky day you get a dusting of snow on the rooftops. I have been to Kyoto in winter and found it a great time for temples and gardens.
Go to a bonenkai or an izakaya
December is bonenkai season, the “forget the year” parties of companies and friend groups. Izakaya are lively and busy on Friday nights. As a visitor you will feel the festive mood even if you do not join one.
What to pack for Japan in December
- A warm coat, scarf and gloves, especially for evenings and Kyoto mornings
- Layers: trains, shops and restaurants are heated, so you will take off your jacket often
- Comfortable shoes that are easy to take off for temples, ryokan and some restaurants
- Lip balm and hand cream, as the air is very dry
- Waterproof boots and proper winter gear if you go to Hokkaido or the mountains
Heat packs (kairo) are sold in every convenience store and drugstore and are a cheap way to stay warm. For a full list, see my Japan packing list.
Prices and crowds in December
The first half of December is usually one of the quieter and cheaper periods of the year. Hotel prices rise around Christmas, in ski areas from the end of December and especially over New Year. Domestic travel peaks right before and after New Year, when many Japanese people go back to their hometowns.
- Cheapest window: roughly 1 to 20 December
- Expensive window: roughly 24 December to 3 January
- Tip: book ski hotels and New Year stays early, they sell out
Sample 10-day December itinerary
- Days 1 to 4: Tokyo for illuminations, a Christmas market, food and day trips
- Days 5 to 6: Nagano for the snow monkeys and an onsen night
- Days 7 to 9: Kyoto for quiet temples and gardens
- Day 10: Osaka for street food before flying out from Kansai
Frequently Asked Questions
Does it snow in Tokyo in December?
Very rarely. Tokyo is usually dry and sunny in December. Snow in Tokyo, if it comes at all, is more likely in January or February. When it does snow, the city looks completely different. I filmed one of those rare snowy days at Suga Shrine and the Your Name stairs in Yotsuya and in Shinjuku Gyoen:
Does it snow in Kanazawa in December?
It can, but December in Kanazawa is more often cold rain and sleet. Heavier snow usually arrives in January and February.
Is Kyoto worth visiting in December?
Yes. Early December can still have autumn colours, and the rest of the month is quieter than spring or autumn. Just dress warmly, temple floors and gardens get cold.
Is Tokyo better in November or December?
November has milder weather and autumn leaves. December is colder but has illuminations, Christmas markets and clear skies. Both are good; choose December if you also want skiing or a winter onsen trip.
Is December a good time to visit Japan?
Yes, especially the first three weeks. Prices are moderate, the weather is mostly dry, and there is a lot to see. Avoid the New Year week if you want open museums and cheaper hotels.
Are things closed in Japan over New Year?
Some are. Many museums, small restaurants and offices close for a few days around 29 December to 3 January. Convenience stores, big chains, shrines and most transport keep running.
What should I wear in Japan in December?
A warm coat, layers you can take off indoors, a scarf and gloves. For Hokkaido or the mountains you need proper winter boots and thermal layers.
Final thoughts
December is a great month for Japan if you like crisp weather, festive lights and onsen. Plan around the New Year rush and you will get a calm, beautiful side of the country. For more festive ideas, read my guide to Christmas in Tokyo.
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