Farnern to Bergwirtschaft Teuffelen: An Easy Autumn Walk in the Jura

A great autumn day in Switzerland does not need a famous mountain. Close to my hometown Solothurn, the first chain of the Jura rises above the Aare valley, and in autumn its slopes turn gold, orange and dark green. The little village of Farnern sits right on that slope, and from there an easy forest walk leads to a mountain farm that makes its own cheese.

We did this walk on a sunny day in early November. I picked Farnern because it is so close to Solothurn, and the weather was perfect: blue sky, warm sun and the autumn leaves at their best.

Farnern to Teuffelen at a Glance

• Start: Restaurant zum Jura in Farnern, canton of Bern, not far from Solothurn
• Goal: Bergwirtschaft Teuffelen, a farm inn above Attiswil
• Walking time: about 50 minutes each way, back the same way
• Highlights: an avenue of trees, autumn beech forest, golden larches, hidden gnomes, cows and homemade cheese
• Best time: mid October to early November for the colours
• Difficulty: easy, with a few rooty forest sections

Where Is Farnern?

Farnern belongs to the Oberaargau region of the canton of Bern. The village lies at roughly 800 m, high above the Aare valley, on the sunny southern side of the Jura chain that also includes the Weissenstein, the home mountain of Solothurn.

Because the slope faces south, Farnern gets a lot of sun in autumn. On many days the Swiss Plateau below is hidden under fog while the Jura sits in sunshine. Days are short in autumn, so start in the late morning at the latest and wear layers, because it gets cold fast once the sun drops.

If you are planning a wider trip in the area, my Solothurn guide and my Switzerland travel guide are good starting points.

Getting There

We came by car and drove up to Farnern, then parked at the Restaurant zum Jura and started walking from there. The road up is narrow, so drive carefully and only park in marked spaces.

Without a car, take the train to Wiedlisbach on the line between Solothurn and Niederbipp and continue by regional bus up to Farnern. The bus does not run very often, so check the SBB app for both directions before you go.

The Walk: Avenue, Forest and Larches

From the Restaurant zum Jura the walk to the Bergwirtschaft Teuffelen takes about 50 minutes. Part of the way follows an avenue of trees, which looks beautiful when the leaves change colour. The yellow Swiss hiking signs show the way.

Larches are conifers that drop their needles in winter, and before they do, they turn bright gold. Next to the dark firs they seem to glow in the afternoon light.

The most beautiful part for me was the last stretch before the inn, where the path leads through the forest. The beeches were copper and orange and the trail was covered in leaves. Leaves hide roots and get slippery after rain, so wear proper shoes.

The Little Gnomes in the Forest

In the forest just before the inn, small garden gnomes stand between the roots and the moss. The farm puts them there. There is one rule: you may move the gnomes with red hats and play with them, but please leave the gnomes with other colours where they are. Children love it, and honestly, so did we.

Bergwirtschaft Teuffelen: Cheese, Cows and a Sunny Terrace

A proper Swiss hike ends at a Bergwirtschaft, a simple mountain inn that is often also a working farm. The Bergwirtschaft Teuffelen is exactly that: a farm on the southern slope of the Jura above Attiswil, with cows on the pasture right in front of the house.

They make their own cheese, and that is the reason to come. We ate their cheese on the terrace and it was excellent. The sausages are bought in, not made on the farm, but they were very tasty too.

Opening days at mountain inns are limited and change with the season, so check the inn’s website or call before you go. Bring cash or have TWINT ready, because card payment is not always possible. If you want to know more about Swiss cheese and other classics, have a look at my Swiss food guide.

The Bättlerchuchi: The Rocks on the Ridge

From the walk you can see the Bättlerchuchi up on the ridge, a rocky spot on the Jura chain. The name is Swiss German and means something like beggars’ kitchen. We did not climb up this time, but marked paths lead there from the Farnern side if you want a longer hike with a bigger view.

Cattle Grids and Gates: Hiking Etiquette in Swiss Pastures

On this hike you will walk past grazing cows more than once. Where a farm road or path crosses a fence line, you will often find a cattle grid: metal bars laid over a shallow pit in the ground. Cows do not like stepping on them, so they stay in their pasture, while people, bikes and cars can pass. Next to the grid there is usually a small gate for walkers and dogs.

A few rules keep farmers happy and you safe:

• Close every gate behind you. If a gate was closed when you arrived, close it again. An open gate can let a whole herd onto a road.
• Read the signs. Warning signs at gates often tell you about cows with calves, a bull or an electric fence.
• Walk calmly around cattle. Keep your distance, never walk between a cow and her calf, and do not touch or feed the animals.
• Dogs on a lead. Cows with calves can react strongly to dogs. If cows come at you aggressively, let the dog go so it can run away.

These rules are part of the general Swiss love of order. If you are planning a longer trip, my seven day Switzerland itinerary helps you fit day hikes like this one into your route.

Combine the Walk With Solothurn or Bern

Farnern is easy to combine with a day in Solothurn. You can do the hike in the morning and spend the evening in the Old Town; my list of the best restaurants in Solothurn helps with dinner, and my guide to events in Solothurn shows what is on in autumn. If you prefer a classic view mountain, the Weissenstein is just along the same Jura chain.

From Bern it is also an easy day trip. In autumn, you can hike in the Jura during the day and then watch the Rendez-vous Bundesplatz light show on the Federal Palace in the evening. My Bern guide has more ideas for the capital.

FAQ: Farnern and the Bergwirtschaft Teuffelen

Final Thoughts

A walk from Farnern to the Bergwirtschaft Teuffelen is Switzerland on a small scale: golden forests, cows on the pasture and homemade cheese on a sunny terrace, with no cable car needed. I would do it again, and autumn is definitely the best season for it.