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When I first heard about Beppu onsen, I imagined a sleepy town filled with rising steam and peaceful hot springs. And that’s exactly what it is, but even better.
Beppu is a small, quiet town in Oita Prefecture on Kyushu, Japan’s southernmost main island. It has more hot spring sources than anywhere else in Japan, well over 2,000 of them, and on a cold morning you can see steam rising from vents all over the city. Yet what surprised me most was how few Western tourists there were. It still feels authentic, local, and wonderfully calm.
We spent two nights in Beppu to unwind, enjoy the hot springs, and explore the beautiful nature nearby. In this guide I’ll share everything we learned: the famous seven “hells”, where you can actually bathe, the best onsen hotels in Beppu, what to eat, how to get there and how many days you need. To see more of rural Kyushu, follow my Kyushu countryside itinerary.
Want to see Beppu before you read on? Here’s my video of the trip, with the seven hells, the steaming streets and the mountains around the town:
Beppu Quick Facts
- Where: Oita Prefecture, on the east coast of Kyushu
- Known for: More hot spring sources than any other place in Japan, split into eight onsen areas called the Beppu Hatto
- Must-see: The seven hells (Jigoku Meguri), for viewing, not bathing
- Best baths: Takegawara Onsen, Hyotan Onsen and the many local bathhouses
- From Fukuoka: About 2 hours by the JR Sonic limited express
- How long: At least two nights
How to Get to Beppu
Most travellers reach Beppu from Fukuoka. The JR Sonic limited express from Hakata Station takes about two hours to Beppu Station and costs around ¥6,400 to ¥6,900 one way, depending on whether you reserve a seat. The cheaper option is the Toyonokuni-go highway bus, which takes about 2 hours 20 minutes and costs around ¥3,250. By car, the drive via the Oita Expressway takes roughly two hours. If you’re spending a few days in Fukuoka first, my Fukuoka travel guide has everything for the city.
If you’re flying in, Oita Airport is the closest airport, and airport buses run to Beppu in under an hour.
Where to Stay: The Best Onsen Hotels in Beppu
In Beppu, your hotel is part of the experience. Almost every hotel and ryokan has its own hot spring water, and many rooms come with a private bath. Here’s where we stayed, plus a few other places worth considering.
Sekiya Resort Galleria Midobaru (Where We Stayed)
For our stay, we chose Sekiya Resort Galleria Midobaru, a stylish art hotel perched on the hills overlooking Beppu. It’s definitely one of the best onsen hotels in Beppu Japan, and though it’s a bit pricey, every moment was worth it.
Our room had a private onsen bath on the balcony, so we could soak while watching the city lights and steam drifting up from the valley below. The minimalist design, art-filled halls, and peaceful atmosphere made it feel like a sanctuary.
The hotel restaurant, The Peak, offers a five-course dinner with an Italian-Japanese fusion menu. It was one of the best meals we had in Kyushu: beautifully plated, flavorful, and creative.
While the hotel is a little far from the city center, it’s perfect if you have a rental car. Which brings me to one of my top recommendations for Beppu: rent a car. It gives you freedom to explore not only the town but also the surrounding Oita countryside.
Other Great Onsen Hotels in Beppu
Suginoi Hotel is Beppu’s classic big resort on the hill above town. It’s best known for Tanayu, a terraced open-air bath that looks out over the whole city and Beppu Bay. It’s a good choice for families and for anyone who wants that famous view without paying luxury prices.
ANA InterContinental Beppu Resort & Spa is the luxury option, high up in the hills with sweeping views over the bay. It combines a modern international hotel with Japanese hot spring baths and is ideal if you want a resort-style stay.
KAI Beppu, run by Hoshino Resorts, sits right on the seafront in the city center. It’s a modern take on the ryokan, with a stylish design, good food and an easy walk to Beppu Station and the old bathhouses.
A traditional ryokan in Kannawa is the choice if you want to stay in the middle of the steam. Kannawa is the hot spring district around the hells, with steaming vents on every corner, and staying here means you can walk to the hells, the steam-cooking center and the public baths.
Which area should you pick? Stay near Beppu Station if you travel by train, as everything is easy to reach by bus. Choose Kannawa for the most atmospheric onsen experience, and the hills if you have a car and want views.
Jigoku Meguri: The Seven Hells of Beppu
The most famous thing to do in Beppu is the Jigoku Meguri, the “Hell Tour”. The seven “hells” (jigoku) are hot springs that are far too hot to bathe in, some close to boiling point. Instead, you walk around and look at them: bright blue ponds, bubbling mud, a red lake and even a geyser. Important to know: the hells are for viewing only, not for bathing. If you want to get in the water, see the onsen hopping section further down.
At each hell, you can collect a stamp in a small booklet. Completing all seven stamps makes a great keepsake, and a small bragging right!
Tickets, Opening Hours and How Long It Takes
You can pay for each hell separately, but the combined ticket for all seven is better value. It costs around ¥2,200 for adults and is valid for two consecutive days, so you don’t have to rush. The hells are open every day from 8:00 to 17:00. Plan about three to four hours for all seven.
The hells are in two areas. Five of them (Umi, Oniishibozu, Shiraike, Kamado and Oniyama) are close together in Kannawa, within walking distance of each other. The other two, Chinoike and Tatsumaki, are next to each other about 3 km away in the Shibaseki area. You can get there by car or by local bus.
1. Umi Jigoku (Sea Hell, 海地獄)
A stunning cobalt-blue hot spring that looks like the ocean, but it’s actually 98°C! The color comes from minerals dissolved in the water. You can see steam everywhere and even buy “onsen eggs” boiled right in the hot spring.
Tip: There’s also a beautiful tropical garden and a smaller red pond on-site.
2. Oniishibozu Jigoku (Demon’s Head Hell, 鬼石坊主地獄)
Named after the bubbling grey mud pools that resemble a monk’s shaved head. It’s mesmerizing to watch, and next door there’s a modern hot spring spa (Oniishi-no-Yu) where you can actually bathe, perfect after visiting the “hells.”
3. Shiraike Jigoku (White Pond Hell, 白池地獄)
This one has milky-white water caused by natural minerals. The area feels like a peaceful Japanese garden, and there’s even a small tropical fish exhibit inside with exotic species.
4. Kamado Jigoku (Cooking Pot Hell, かまど地獄)
Kamado means “cooking pot,” and this Jigoku is themed around the idea of cooking with onsen steam. There are multiple pools in different colors and temperatures, plus demonstrations where staff show how to steam food using the natural vents.
💡 Try the onsen-steamed pudding or boiled eggs here. They’re delicious!
5. Oniyama Jigoku (Monster Mountain Hell, 鬼山地獄)
This Jigoku is known for its crocodiles! The hot spring water here is used to warm the reptile enclosures, making it one of the most unusual onsen attractions in Japan. During my visit, I was surprised to see how many crocodiles were kept in each pen. The space looked cramped, and some animals appeared injured. It was difficult to watch, and I left feeling uneasy about how the reptiles are cared for. If you’re sensitive to animal welfare, you might want to skip this stop or view it only briefly.
6. Chinoike Jigoku (Blood Pond Hell, 血の池地獄)
This is one of the most photographed hells: a striking red pond created by iron oxide and red clay in the water. The color is 100% natural and looks surreal in photos. It’s also one of the oldest hells on record, already mentioned in ancient Japanese writings.
7. Tatsumaki Jigoku (Tornado Hell, 龍巻地獄)
A powerful geyser that erupts every 30 to 40 minutes, shooting boiling water and steam high into the air. A stone roof stops the water from flying too high. The eruptions are predictable, so you can time your visit easily.
Onsen Hopping in Beppu: Where to Actually Bathe
After looking at the hells, it’s time to get into the water. Beppu is divided into eight hot spring areas known as the Beppu Hatto: Beppu, Hamawaki, Kankaiji, Horita, Myoban, Kannawa, Shibaseki and Kamegawa. Each has its own water and character, and real onsen hopping means trying a few different bathhouses in one or two days. These are the best places to start:
Takegawara Onsen
Beppu’s most famous public bathhouse, founded in 1879 and housed in a beautiful wooden building from 1938 near Beppu Station. A normal bath costs only about ¥300, and the highlight is the sand bath (around ¥1,500), where staff bury you in hot sand warmed by the spring water. The water here is very hot, so do as the locals do and cool your wash bucket down first. Tattoos are allowed.
Hyotan Onsen
Opened in 1922 at the entrance to Kannawa, Hyotan Onsen is famous for its three-star rating in the Michelin Green Guide. It has a bit of everything: a waterfall bath, a steam bath, a sand bath and open-air baths, all with free-flowing natural hot spring water. It’s open until late at night, so it works well after dinner.
Oniishi-no-Yu and the Kannawa Bathhouses
Right next to Oniishibozu Jigoku, Oniishi-no-Yu is a modern bathhouse and the easiest way to combine the hell tour with a real soak. Around Kannawa you’ll also find small local bathhouses, free foot baths and even steam foot baths along the streets.
Tip for onsen hopping: bring your own small towel, some coins and a bag for wet things. Many local bathhouses are very simple and don’t sell or rent much. If this is your first time in a Japanese hot spring, read my onsen etiquette guide before you go.
What Makes Beppu Onsen So Unique
Unlike other Japanese hot spring towns, Beppu’s geothermal energy is extremely strong. Some springs come out at close to 100°C, far too hot for bathing, which is why the hells exist at all. At the same time, the city has enough cooler water to fill hundreds of public baths, hotel baths and private tubs.
One thing to check before you go: many onsen still have rules about visible tattoos. For how that works and where tattooed visitors can bathe, see my guide to tattoos in Japan.
You’ll see bright blue, white, and even red-colored springs caused by minerals. My favorite was the Umi Jigoku, the “Sea Hell,” which has a deep cobalt blue pool surrounded by tropical plants.
If this is your first time visiting Japanese hot springs, or if you want to understand the differences between public baths, private onsens, and the different types of hot spring water, I’ve put together a detailed onsen guide based on my travels across Japan. For the bigger picture of Japan’s hot spring towns and traditional inns, see my guide to Japan’s onsen and ryokan heritage.
Things to Do in Oita and Beppu
Beyond soaking in the onsen, there are so many things to do in Oita and Beppu. The natural scenery is breathtaking: mountains, lakes, forests, and old train stations full of character.
Since we had a car, we took a day to explore some of the highlights around Beppu. Here’s what I recommend:
Drive to the Suzume Door Bungo Mori Roundhouse
If you’re a fan of Japanese anime films, this stop is a must! The Suzume door at the Bungo Mori Roundhouse in Oita is a real-life location linked to Makoto Shinkai’s popular movie Suzume, from the same director as Your Name. It’s about an hour’s drive from Beppu, and the road there winds through some of the most beautiful countryside in Kyushu.
The roundhouse is an old train depot surrounded by mountains. The “door” from the movie stands in front of it, making it a perfect photo spot. Even if you haven’t seen the film, the area’s peaceful atmosphere and scenic drive make it worth visiting.
Stop at Lake Kinrin
On the way to Bungo Mori, we made a stop at Lake Kinrin in Yufuin. This lake is famous for its mystical morning mist and a red torii gate standing in the water, similar to the one in Hiroshima.
It’s a romantic and picturesque place for a walk. There are cute cafés and small shops nearby, perfect for a break.
Visit Mount Yufu
Mount Yufu is a volcano that towers over Yufuin and offers stunning views. Even if you’re not hiking, you can stop at viewpoints along the road for great photo opportunities. The mountain looks especially magical during sunset or when the peaks are covered in clouds.
Lunch at Yunotakean
For lunch, we stopped at Yunotakean, a lovely Japanese restaurant near Lake Kinrin. It serves traditional dishes in a calm atmosphere, surrounded by greenery. It’s one of my favorite food experiences in the Oita area: fresh, local, and beautifully presented.
If you want to see more of rural Japan beyond Kyushu, my guide to countryside Japan covers my favourite regions.
What to Eat in Beppu
Beppu has a few local specialties you won’t find everywhere in Japan, and some of them are cooked with the hot springs themselves.
Jigoku-mushi (hell steaming): food steamed over the natural hot spring vents. The best place to try it is Jigoku Mushi Kobo Kannawa, a steam-cooking center in Kannawa where you buy a basket of vegetables, seafood or meat, rent a steam oven for about 15 minutes and cook it yourself with the help of the staff. It’s fun, cheap and one of the most unique food experiences in Japan.
Toriten: Oita’s chicken tempura, lighter than karaage and usually eaten with a vinegar-soy dip and mustard.
Beppu reimen: cold noodles in a light broth, often topped with kimchi and beef. Perfect on a hot day after the onsen.
Dango-jiru: a hearty Oita miso soup with thick, flat hand-pulled noodles and vegetables, great in the colder months.
Where We Ate in Beppu City
Back in Beppu, we found two great local spots side by side. Nishida Hotpot is a cozy restaurant serving comforting hotpot, perfect after a long day of onsen hopping. Right next door, 食堂トンボ (Shokudo Tonbo) is a small bar with great drinks and friendly locals. Have dinner at Nishida, then hop over to Tonbo for a nightcap.
Getting Around Beppu
Within Beppu, local buses connect Beppu Station with Kannawa and the hells in about 15 minutes, and taxis are easy to find. If you only want to see the city, the hells and a few bathhouses, buses are enough.
To explore the rest of Oita Prefecture, the best way is by renting a car. Public transport is fine for short trips, but having a car lets you discover hidden onsens, scenic valleys, and mountain roads that most tourists miss. If you drive, try to avoid the highways and take the local roads. The countryside views are incredible, and you’ll pass through charming small towns along the way.
Best Time to Visit Beppu
Beppu is a year-round destination, but autumn and winter are the most atmospheric seasons. When the air is cold, the steam from the vents is much more visible, and a hot bath feels even better. Spring is mild and pleasant, while summer can be hot and humid, which makes long soaks less appealing. Our October visit was perfect: comfortable temperatures, clear views and lots of steam in the mornings.
How Many Days to Spend in Beppu
I’d recommend staying at least two nights in Beppu. That’s enough time to relax, visit a few different onsens, and do a day trip to Oita’s natural spots.
A simple plan for two days: spend day one on the seven hells in the morning, lunch at the steam-cooking center in Kannawa and a few bathhouses in the afternoon, followed by Takegawara or Hyotan Onsen in the evening. On day two, drive to Lake Kinrin, Yufuin and the Suzume door, and come back for a last soak at your hotel.
If you’re more into nature and photography, you could easily spend three or four days exploring the full region. I personally wish we’d had one extra day to see more of the valleys, bridges, and countryside around Oita.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can you bathe in the hells of Beppu?
No. The seven hells are far too hot and are for viewing only. To bathe, go to a public bathhouse like Takegawara Onsen, Hyotan Onsen or Oniishi-no-Yu, or use the baths at your hotel.
How much is the ticket for the Beppu hells?
The combined ticket for all seven hells costs around ¥2,200 for adults and is valid for two days. You can also pay for each hell separately.
Is Beppu worth visiting?
Absolutely. Nowhere else in Japan has so many hot springs in one place, and the mix of steaming streets, old bathhouses, colourful hells and good food makes it one of the most unique towns in the country.
Can I visit Beppu as a day trip from Fukuoka?
Yes, the train takes about two hours each way, so a day trip is possible. But you’ll only have time for the hells and one bath. To really enjoy Beppu, stay at least one night, ideally two.
Are there tattoo-friendly onsen in Beppu?
Yes. Beppu is more relaxed about tattoos than many other places in Japan, and Takegawara Onsen allows tattoos. Rules differ from bath to bath, so check before you go, or book a hotel room with a private bath.
How many days do you need in Beppu?
Two nights is ideal. That gives you one day for the seven hells and onsen hopping, and one day for a trip to Lake Kinrin, Yufuin and the Oita countryside. Nature and photography fans can easily spend three or four days.
When is the best time to visit Beppu?
Autumn and winter are the most atmospheric seasons, because the steam is much more visible in cold air and a hot bath feels even better. Spring is also pleasant, while summer can be hot and humid.
Final Thoughts: The Magic of Beppu Onsen
Our trip to Beppu was one of the most relaxing parts of our Japan journey. Between the steaming streets, the soothing baths, and the peaceful mountains, it’s the perfect place to slow down and enjoy a side of Japan that feels authentic and local.
Whether you come for a weekend getaway or a longer stay, Beppu onsen will leave you feeling refreshed and inspired. From luxurious stays like Sekiya Resort Galleria Midobaru to public bathhouses full of history, every soak tells a story.
If you’re planning a Kyushu road trip, make sure Beppu is on your list. It’s a destination that combines comfort, culture, and natural beauty in one unforgettable experience. Combine it with my Kyushu countryside road trip and a few days in Fukuoka, and find more of my Japan guides in the Japan Insider Hub.
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