Tsukiji vs Toyosu: Tokyo Fish Markets Guide

Tokyo has two fish market destinations that visitors talk about: Tsukiji and Toyosu. The wholesale fish market moved from Tsukiji to Toyosu in 2018, so the famous tuna auction now happens at Toyosu. Tsukiji Outer Market, the street food and shopping area around the old site, is still open and is the better choice if you want to eat and browse.

In short: go to Tsukiji for food, atmosphere and snacks, and go to Toyosu if you want to watch the tuna auction or see a modern working market. This guide explains the difference, how the tuna auction viewing works and how to plan your visit.

Tsukiji vs Toyosu at a Glance

Is Tsukiji Market Still Open?

Yes and no. The inner wholesale market closed in 2018 and moved to Toyosu. The outer market, which was always the part most visitors enjoyed, stayed. Today it has hundreds of shops selling seafood, tamagoyaki, knives, dried goods and kitchen tools, plus many small sushi and seafood bowl restaurants.

Popular things to try include:

• Tamagoyaki on a stick, the sweet rolled omelette
• Fresh oysters, scallops and grilled seafood
• Kaisendon, a rice bowl topped with sashimi
• Tuna in various cuts, from lean akami to fatty toro
• Matcha sweets and strawberry daifuku

Many shops close by early afternoon and some close on Sundays, Wednesdays and market holidays. Check the official market calendar before you go.

I have been to the Tsukiji Outer Market several times, mostly to eat at its sushi restaurants. It is still my favourite place for seafood in Tokyo.

Is Toyosu Market Worth Visiting?

Toyosu is worth it if you are curious about how a huge fish market works, or if you want to see the tuna auction. It is less atmospheric than Tsukiji because visitors walk on observation corridors above the trading floors, behind glass. On the plus side, it is clean, well signed and has a good selection of sushi and seafood restaurants inside.

The market buildings are split into areas for seafood wholesale, intermediate wholesale and fruits and vegetables. Displays along the walkways explain the history of the market and how fish move from boat to restaurant.

How to See the Tuna Auction at Toyosu

There are two ways to see the tuna auction:

• The observation deck (lottery): a lower deck closer to the auction floor. Access is by online lottery, with applications opening roughly a month in advance on the official Toyosu Market website. Winners are notified by email, must arrive very early in the morning and need photo ID. Tickets are free and cannot be transferred or resold.
• The upper observation walkway: no lottery needed. You view the auction through glass from above. Arrive early, as the auction happens in the early morning and is over quickly.

The auction does not take place on market holidays, usually Sundays, national holidays and some Wednesdays. Always check the official calendar and the current rules, since details like times and capacity have changed over the years.

Where to Eat Sushi Near the Markets

Both markets are famous for sushi breakfasts. At Toyosu, some well known sushi restaurants have long queues from early morning. At Tsukiji, you will find everything from standing sushi counters to small seafood bowl shops.

Tips:

• Go early on a weekday for shorter lines.
• Bring cash, although more shops now accept cards.
• Market sushi is good, but not automatically cheaper than elsewhere in Tokyo. Expect about 3,000 to 6,000 yen for a sushi set at popular places.
• If you want a calm, high end experience, a reserved sushi restaurant may be better. I wrote about dining at Roppongi Fukuzushi.

For something cheaper, conveyor belt chains are fun too. See my ranking of Japan’s sushi chains.

Market Etiquette

Both markets are working places, so a few rules apply:

• Do not touch seafood or products unless you are buying.
• Do not block narrow lanes or delivery vehicles.
• Eat at the stall where you bought the food, not while walking through crowds.
• Ask before photographing staff or shop interiors.
• Avoid large suitcases and strollers in peak hours at Tsukiji.
• Do not enter areas marked for staff only.

Other Fish and Food Markets Near Tokyo

If you enjoy markets, there are more options:

• Kappabashi Street: not a fish market, but the best place for knives and kitchenware. See my Kappabashi guide.
• Ameyoko in Ueno: a lively market street with seafood, snacks and cheap eats.
• Coastal towns: harbour towns around Tokyo have local fish markets, often with very fresh seafood restaurants.

How to Plan Your Visit

• For a classic food morning: Tsukiji Outer Market around 8 or 9 am, then walk to Ginza or Hamarikyu Gardens.
• For the tuna auction: stay near the Yurikamome line or take a taxi, since the first trains may not get you there in time.
• For both: auction at Toyosu early, then breakfast and shopping at Tsukiji later in the morning.

If you only have time for one of the two, I would pick Tsukiji. It is the place I kept coming back to for sushi.

A Short History of Tokyo’s Fish Market

Tokyo’s central fish market has a long history. A market near Nihonbashi supplied the city in the Edo period, and after the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923 the market moved to Tsukiji, where it operated for most of the 20th century. Tsukiji became world famous for its early morning tuna auctions and the busy, chaotic atmosphere inside.

By the 2000s, the Tsukiji buildings were old and crowded, and there were concerns about hygiene, earthquake safety and space for modern refrigeration. After years of debate, the wholesale market moved to the new Toyosu site on reclaimed land in Tokyo Bay in October 2018. Toyosu has closed, temperature controlled buildings, which is better for food safety but means visitors now watch from behind glass.

The outer market at Tsukiji was never part of the move. Its shops and restaurants grew up around the wholesale market over decades, and many are still family businesses. That is why Tsukiji still feels like the old Tokyo food world, even without the auctions.

Frequently Asked Questions

Final Thoughts

Tsukiji and Toyosu complement each other well. Combine them with other food stops in my Tokyo travel guide.